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This is the alternate Part #'s thread.
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Is this list a good idea or am I wasting my time......
YES - Good idea
98%
 98%  [ 51 ]
NO - Wasting your time
0%
 0%  [ 0 ]
List.. What List
1%
 1%  [ 1 ]
Total Votes : 52

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nosis_rocks@hotmail.com



Joined: 02 Oct 2012
Posts: 126
Location: Calgary Ab.

PostPosted: Fri Jan 18, 2013 7:24 am Post subject: Reply with quote

I have found that for a few things like the Alternator and anything that takes a lot of effort to search for here it is just better to order your parts from overseas.
Ladaworld/LadaPower and russian4X4 have all been good so far. You may pay the shipping and have to wait a couple weeks but at least you get the part you need for your Lada and you don't have to worry about messing around trying to modify a part you bought here. I learned this the hard way trying to get the Champion alternator pulleys lined up. I ended up frying the diodes in it by accident so I took it back and ordered a 100 amp one off of Russian4x4. For around 150 bucks shipped to my door and its the right one, worth the wait!
The list is great though for things that you can get easily here and not have to modify!
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Lada in Vietnam



Joined: 29 Apr 2013
Posts: 3
Location: VIETNAM

PostPosted: Sun Jul 07, 2013 11:01 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

My 2107 is running on a toyota carb and distributor. Runs good too!
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crb247



Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 2733
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, ON, Canada

PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 5:24 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

nosis_rocks@hotmail.com wrote:
I have found that for a few things like the Alternator and anything that takes a lot of effort to search for here it is just better to order your parts from overseas.
Ladaworld/LadaPower and russian4X4 have all been good so far. You may pay the shipping and have to wait a couple weeks but at least you get the part you need for your Lada and you don't have to worry about messing around trying to modify a part you bought here. I learned this the hard way trying to get the Champion alternator pulleys lined up. I ended up frying the diodes in it by accident so I took it back and ordered a 100 amp one off of Russian4x4. For around 150 bucks shipped to my door and its the right one, worth the wait!
The list is great though for things that you can get easily here and not have to modify!


For TBI Niva's it's easier and cheaper to have it rebuilt at an autoelectric shop. It's a standard Delco alternator so our Delco rebuild parts and upgrades work. My last rebuild including upgrades and new bearings was less than a hundred bucks and the tech had it done next day.
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'15 Yota Rav4
'06 'sploder V8
'98 Niva (Project Roadkill)
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threenutwonder



Joined: 24 Sep 2014
Posts: 1
Location: lower mainland BC

PostPosted: Wed Sep 24, 2014 9:21 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Not sure if it has been listed but another alternate air filter is BECK/ARNLEY 042-8110
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gogmorgo



Joined: 20 Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Wed May 06, 2015 2:23 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I just replaced the lift supports for my '96 Niva's rear hatch. This is with the newer-style longer rear hatch. By lift supports, I'm referring to the little gas shocks that keep the hatch from slamming closed.
After comparing the factory ones to just about every single one the parts store I worked at had in stock, I chose Strong Arm 4184's. I think they're for the rear glass on a late-90's Tahoe. They've got the little electrical connectors for a rear defroster, (unnecessary for the Niva) but the 4650's should be the same, just without the connectors.
If I have to replace them again, I might try to find some that are about 3/8" to 1/2" longer and that are a little stronger. The 4184's work, but I'm 6'2" and the fully-open hatch brushes my hair, and I have to lift it 3/4 of the way open before the shocks take over, although they'll hold it where I leave it above 1/2 way open.
After consulting an online Strong Arm catalog, I had my eyes on the 4353's, which are for the hatch on a Pontiac Aztek, but my store didn't have any in stock. They should have the height and strength I'm looking for, but while I'm fairly confident they should work, the compressed length is a bit longer than I was looking for, and I didn't want to special order them if I wasn't 100% positive they would work.

So if you're sick of having the hatch slam on your head, the lift supports for a ~98 Tahoe's rear glass (Strong Arm 4184 w/ defroster connectors or 4650's w/o defrost connectors, or equivalents),will work for you. Note that they're just for the Tahoe's rear glass, not the full hatch. The supports for a Pontiac Aztek (Strong Arm 4353 or equivalent) should work better, but I haven't tried them so I can't 100% confirm that.
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hark000



Joined: 25 Nov 2012
Posts: 164
Location: Bracebridge, Ontario, Canada

PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2015 6:00 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I found locally available front wheel bearings and seals for my 98 Niva
(The seal isn't 100% perfect but worked very well for me, at least it will get you out of a bind!!)

Bearing - SKF 32008X - Lada # 2121-3103020-10, or 2121-3103020-11
Seal - SKF 22037 - Lada # 2121-3103038

**NOTE ABOUT THE SEAL**
The Seal is narrower than the Lada one so it shouldn't be pushed all the way in! Only pushed in far enough that the rubber seal is in the same position as the Original rubber seal.

**ALSO**
The shaft size for the seal is 5 thou larger than OEM lada spec but still fit snugly on my hub and CV shaft. If your hub/CV shaft is worn your mileage may vary

**Things I noticed or came across...**
1) The cup on the bearing is slightly wider than the Lada bearing but the overall bearing width when assembled (cup and cone) was nearly the same

2) The seal fit perfectly into the front side of the wheel bearing housing but was slightly loose in the housing rear side (possibly worn Niva wheel bearing housing or the seal was faulty and made a little small but it still fit snugly on the CV axle) (I just slightly expanded it and worked like a dream)
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1998 Lada Niva 1.7i - Daily Ride & Project Smile

1998 Honda Civic - Daily Driver
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gogmorgo



Joined: 20 Jun 2012
Posts: 44
Location: Saskatoon

PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2015 7:06 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Picked up this brush guard for my Jeep, and since I had it and my Niva in the same place, I got curious. Not the absolute worst fit ever. It would be pretty trivial for someone with basic fabrication abilities to come up with a way to get this on there.



If it's not the factory piece for the XJ Cherokee, it's a very close imitation of it. While I don't know that using this specific guard is the best idea, what with the lower bar partially obstructing the headlights and the upper bar completely obstructing the turn signals, it would mean that other guards intended for the XJ Cherokee (the old one, 1984-2001, not the current... thing) wouldn't take much work to get on there, either.




This is where the brackets end up with the guard sitting the way it is in the first picture, carefully aligned in fifteen seconds by balancing it on a brick (the first convenient object) on top of the Niva's bumper, after going "huh, I wonder how well it would fit".

This little exercise also shows that despite people (well, person) on here making fun of my "big thirsty Jeep", it's not really all that much bigger. It's also not all that much thirstier, despite having twice the horsepower.
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rabfan



Joined: 13 Jul 2015
Posts: 5

PostPosted: Mon Dec 14, 2015 6:32 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Tried the Napa 3265 fuel filter. Didn't fit my 98 Niva. Wrong threads and wrong type of fitting required. My lines have a rubber oring on them. The Napa filter requires a bubble flare or the like to deform on the inner seat.
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crb247



Joined: 16 Sep 2007
Posts: 2733
Location: Sault Ste. Marie, ON, Canada

PostPosted: Fri Mar 11, 2016 6:17 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I removed the Napa fuel filter from the list. Thx for the feedback
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'15 Yota Rav4
'06 'sploder V8
'98 Niva (Project Roadkill)
'96 Samara purple-ish (grimace) *sold pending pickup*
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cossack



Joined: 16 Dec 2017
Posts: 1
Location: Toronto, Canada

PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2017 9:24 pm Post subject: Alternator options Reply with quote

Recently I went through the replacement of dead alternator on my 1.7 inj Niva, hopefully that may be useful for someone.
A few notes:
1. Originally Nivas were equipped with 2 types of alternators having different pivot and adjuster points. Inj 1.7 had a single wide pivot leg and the adjuster bolt on the front surface. Carb 1.6 had two pivot legs at the front and back of the body and the adjustment stud sticking vertically from the side of the alternator body. That might differ for export cars, so I am not sure whether below info is applicable beyond 1.7 inj Niva.
2. Fuel injection system has higher power demand so alternator must be rated 80A or more to provide sufficient supply. Carb 1.6 engines were originally equipped with 55A alternators.

I would recommend to start with Dixie Electric - A6271 (listed on p.1). It is 80A and it seems to be the closest match to the original one.
Unfortunately, the electric shop I went to did not carry them so I had to look for another option from AC Delco family or its clones intended for a variety of GM engines and hence very common. Something like this:
https://www.dbelectrical.com/products/high-output-chevy-one-1-wire-alternator-105-amp-10si-se.html
Note that many GM alternators are 63A only, so watch that parameter closely. There are self-exciting or "single-wire" versions which only need a wire from battery, not sure how well that would work for Niva where a wire from instrumental panel must be hooked to alternator too. This subject is discussed in other topics on this forum. Anecdotally, some "single-wire" alternators have a terminal for instrumental panel wire hidden under rubber plug just in case, although that is to be verified.
The shop recommended model 7294-SEN which is similar in design and has a charge light terminal. It is rated 94A, works well, gives solid 14V; 13.7V on idle with everything possible is on.

The caveats:
1. Apparently all AC Delco-style alternators have bigger body, so when installed/removed they won't squeeze between engine and frame until the alternator mounting bracket is removed from the engine. A bit more hassle when installing/removing.
2. By the same reason they almost have no space for adjustment - when the alternator is pushed all the way to the engine it is already at 3/4 of the adjustment sector. On summer I'll make a longer custom adjustment sector.
3. The standard belt (close to A-35; 37" outside) might be too short for that alternator because it stops too far from engine to begin with. You may want to have A-36 and A-37 belts handy. Make sure that bottom part of the belt does not touch mounting bracket or file the later as necessary.
4. The pivot leg is narrower vs. the original alternator, some spacer (3-4 washers) at the back is needed. The good thing is the front surface of pivot leg is at the right distance from the pulley valley.
5. The standard pivot bolt is 8 mm while the alternator pivot hole is 10mm (or 3/8" ?) so alternator may wobble. Tightening pivot bolt really well squares the alternator, make sure that rear bushing in mounting bracket moves freely.
6. My new alternator had smaller pulley vs. original, the shop guys said it's Ok to leave it as-is, not to switch. The small pulley paired well with original belt, switching it with the original pulley may require longer belt.

Good luck!

Admin, yo may want to add model to cross-reference list.
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Dneprdude



Joined: 25 Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Location: Wilmington NC

PostPosted: Fri Feb 09, 2018 4:29 pm Post subject: 2103 headlight rings Reply with quote

Partsplace has 64-72 GM A body 5 3/4 stainless headlight rings that will fit the 2103 headlight buckets. New holes need to be drilled, but no biggie. Couldn't find them new for sale over seas, just as the whole unit. $20, can't beat it.
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'74 VAZ 2103
'91 LuAZ 969M
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Dneprdude



Joined: 25 Mar 2017
Posts: 78
Location: Wilmington NC

PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 5:37 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

Front shocks for 2101-2107. For Saab 900 front. KYB KG4532. Spoke to KYB rep and these were recommended after much research on my end. Rear shocks: for hardbody Nissan truck among others. KYB KG4012. Still in process of fitting. Got one front on and looks good.




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'74 VAZ 2103
'91 LuAZ 969M
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