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New 2103 owner - need help with lowering

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futureman



Joined: 15 Dec 2018
Posts: 1

PostPosted: Sat Dec 15, 2018 3:06 am Post subject: New 2103 owner - need help with lowering Reply with quote

Hi - I recently purchased a 1980 2103 and I want to lower it. Eventually I'd like to get air suspension but for now I just want to lower it with springs. I've seen -50mm, -90mm and -120mm springs but I would like to see what people's Ladas look like with each. I assume that -90mm would work, I don't want it slammed since the roads aren't great where I live but I want it to look lowered. Any suggestions? if you have your 2103 or 2101 lowered with any of thee springs, could you share a picture? thanks!
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MistahNash



Joined: 28 Nov 2018
Posts: 9

PostPosted: Mon Mar 11, 2019 4:39 pm Post subject: Reply with quote

I just finished lowering my 2101, I got the 50 mm (2 inch) lowering springs because didn't want to risk hurting the car on the crappy roads around where I live. The job its self is fairly easy.

For the fronts there are a few steps.

1. Lift the car and remove the wheel.
2. Remove the shock. ( One nut on the top in the engine bay and 2 on the bottom of the lower control arm. Will need to use a jack to lift the hub up enough to slide the shock out if your just using jack stands like I was.
3. Remove the 2 nuts holding the sway bar on. Do this on both sides and then you can turn the sway bar towards the front of the car and get it out of the way.
4. Use some spring compressors on the springs to stop the spring from putting to much pressure on the lower control arm for the next few steps.

( I had to cut the treads of my spring compressors to shorten them and make them fit. I had one on the outside of the spring and one on the inside facing the other way. Depending on what spring compressors you have they will fit up threw the hole in the control arm where you took the shock out)

5. The hardest part for me was the lower ball joint. I was not able to get a ball joint fork in there because of the limited space so I had to go buy a smaller style ball joint tool that you use a socket/wrench on.

The turn the wheels so you can get more access to the front of the ball joint and loosen the nut on the ball joint about half way. (There is not enough room to fully removed the nut because it will hit the hub assembly). Then use your ball joint tool and get it set up as best as you can. There isnt enough room to get it all the way in there but just enough to make it work.

Mine were on there really tight so it took some effort to get them to come free. The nut will keep the ball joint from completely coming off. Once the ball joint is lose put a jack under the control arm and lift it up slightly. Finish removing the nut if you can, they sometimes will spin and you will either have to get some vice grips on the ball joint shaft if there is enough room or you will have to cut the shaft and replace the ball joint. I was able to get mine off using the vice grips.

6. Loosen the outside nuts of the lower control arm where you see the bushings. This releases the pressure on the control arm bushings and let the control arm swing freely and have enough room to get the spring out.

7. Slowly lower the jack, with the springs compressors on the spring there should be enough room underneath to get the jack out still.

8. I used my foot to push the control arm inwards towards the center of the car. You should be able to wiggle the spring out now.

9. Now remove the springs compressors and put them on the new springs. I had to tighten them up a lot to get enough space to get the control arm back into a position where I could get the jack under it and use the jack to compress the spring the rest of the way.

10. Line up the ball joint with the hole and raise the jack until you can see about half the threads coming threw. (Remember that you cant get the nut back on if the ball joint is all the way in the hole). Put the nut back on and tighten it to the point where the threads are showing above the top of the nut.

11. Now raise the ball joint the rest of the way and then tighten the nut all the way.

12. Lower the jack and remove the spring compressors.

13. Reinstall the shock.

DO NOT TIGHTEN THE CONTROL ARM NUTS UNTIL THE CAR IS ON THE GROUND.

14. Repeat on the other side.

15. Reinstall the sway arm then lower the car.

16. Now you can tighten the control arm nuts.

The rears are way to easy I couldn't believe it.

1. Raise the back of the car and remove the wheels.

2. Using your spring compressors compress the spring. You will be able to get the spring out with just the spring compressors and don't have to remove anything at all from the back other then the wheels.

3. The new springs will just fit into place and you don't need to even use the spring compressors. Just make sure the springs are lined up with the groove on the bottom.

4. Put wheels back and and lower the car, make the the tops of the springs are sitting flush and your done.

The fronts took me probably 6-8 hours or so because I replaced my lower control arms and bushing while I was up there.

The rears took me 20 minutes.

Sorry not pictures of the process but I will get some of what the car looks like now. They still need to settle because I have not driven the car yet but they are pretty close to where they will be.
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